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Eberhardt’s Tire & Automotive
"My brakes are squealing..."
Common complaint, but not one any shop wants to hear AFTER they just completed a brake job. Any time a customer has to return after a repair to have an issue addressed, whether related to the repair or not, is a mark against your shop. Customers don't know how their car operates, and don't understand...all they know is they had to return and they really didn't want to. Anyway, I digress...back to the topic at hand.
I've found a few ways to minimize brake noise when performing brake service, and we'll focus on disc brake systems today. First, I like to use a pad that is consistent with the OE formulation. This is a personal thing, but certainly using a semi-metallic pad in place of a ceramic will add to the possibility of noise. I've even had a few cars that had to have the OEM pads to stay quiet, and I prefer OEM pads for any high end car I work on.
Second, I like to get a good, clean finish on the rotors. I use my die grinder with a brown ScotchBrite pad, running at a medium speed and applied to the turning rotor with light to moderate pressure. This is, of course, after refinishing the rotor, and helps to knock down the surface irregularities left during the machining process. Even better is the use of a sanding block and some 200-400 grit paper held to each side of the rotor for about a minute. Then it is cleaned in a bath of hot, soapy water.
I reinstall the rotor, and use an oversized nut over the stud, then the lug nut over the stud, to hold the rotor in place. Don't touch the surface or get the surface greasy...that's a sure way to cause noise complaints. I make sure before hand that the rotor to hub mating surfaces are clean and free of rust to avoid adding in any lateral runout. Then I take care of the calipers. I like to use new hardware for the pad mounts...loose pads rattle and squeal. I clean the caliper pistons and boots before compressing the pistons back into the bores, and apply a light coat of high temperature silicone to the piston/pad contact points, and the caliper/pad contact points.
Some pads come with an adhesive backing...don't apply lube to these, or you'll defeat the purpose. Do be sure the contacts are clean, so the adhesive will stick.
I torque down the caliper mount, and the caliper. The wheel assembly is also torqued to avoid causing any rotor warpage. Even a small amount will lead to premature rotor wear and pedal pulsation...and noise.
Noise is usually caused by the pads vibrating in their mounts, or by contaminated linings. Take a few extra steps during the reline, to avoid having to do it again as a comeback.
Common complaint, but not one any shop wants to hear AFTER they just completed a brake job. Any time a customer has to return after a repair to have an issue addressed, whether related to the repair or not, is a mark against your shop. Customers don't know how their car operates, and don't understand...all they know is they had to return and they really didn't want to. Anyway, I digress...back to the topic at hand.
I've found a few ways to minimize brake noise when performing brake service, and we'll focus on disc brake systems today. First, I like to use a pad that is consistent with the OE formulation. This is a personal thing, but certainly using a semi-metallic pad in place of a ceramic will add to the possibility of noise. I've even had a few cars that had to have the OEM pads to stay quiet, and I prefer OEM pads for any high end car I work on.
Second, I like to get a good, clean finish on the rotors. I use my die grinder with a brown ScotchBrite pad, running at a medium speed and applied to the turning rotor with light to moderate pressure. This is, of course, after refinishing the rotor, and helps to knock down the surface irregularities left during the machining process. Even better is the use of a sanding block and some 200-400 grit paper held to each side of the rotor for about a minute. Then it is cleaned in a bath of hot, soapy water.
I reinstall the rotor, and use an oversized nut over the stud, then the lug nut over the stud, to hold the rotor in place. Don't touch the surface or get the surface greasy...that's a sure way to cause noise complaints. I make sure before hand that the rotor to hub mating surfaces are clean and free of rust to avoid adding in any lateral runout. Then I take care of the calipers. I like to use new hardware for the pad mounts...loose pads rattle and squeal. I clean the caliper pistons and boots before compressing the pistons back into the bores, and apply a light coat of high temperature silicone to the piston/pad contact points, and the caliper/pad contact points.
Some pads come with an adhesive backing...don't apply lube to these, or you'll defeat the purpose. Do be sure the contacts are clean, so the adhesive will stick.
I torque down the caliper mount, and the caliper. The wheel assembly is also torqued to avoid causing any rotor warpage. Even a small amount will lead to premature rotor wear and pedal pulsation...and noise.
Noise is usually caused by the pads vibrating in their mounts, or by contaminated linings. Take a few extra steps during the reline, to avoid having to do it again as a comeback.
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